Tools Needed:

Run the two pairs of door speaker wires to the back of the amp and fasten to the right and left channel front outputs of the amp. Most car audio amps use push-in sockets: Most factory-installed speaker wiring uses copper-colored wire for positive and silver-colored for negative. A few others use the same color wiring but put a raised strip on the negative side of the wire. Most car amps have 4-ohm output impedance. Make sure your speakers are the same impedance.

The impedance is usually listed on the back of the speaker and on the output terminals of your car stereo. If you replaced the factory-installed speakers, the installation manual should tell you the impedance. Turn the balance control on your car stereo from one side to the other to check the sound for balance after your installation is complete. Lift the panel upwards while pulling it out from the window crankshaft, and it should snap free of the trim at the edge of the window.

Do not pull far enough away from the door itself to damage wiring for electric locks and windows, if the car is so equipped. Match your new speakers to the old ones, both in diameter, shape, and depth. Very high powered speakers may not have space for the ceramic magnets attached to the back of the speaker frame, so it is probably best to measure this clearance before buying your new speakers. Clamp your new speakers into the door.

If the original equipment clamps don't fit your new speakers, you may want to pop rivet or use self drilling machine screws to attach them. Reattach the speaker wires, noting the positive and negative positions. If you don't have a mark or know the polarity of the wires, you may have to test the speakers prior to reinstalling the door.

Powering the speakers with reverse polarity should not damage them unless you have a highly amplified system, but it is always better to connect them properly the first time. Reassemble the door panel, and reinstall the window crank and lock knob in reverse order. New Speakers in Different Locations Select the location of your new speakers. This option allows you to put much larger speakers in your car if you choose the proper location.


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Here are some possible choices. In the rear dashboard. Install speakers here, behind the backseat headrest, by laying out holes with the cutting templates provided with your new speakers, or by tracing the outline of your new speaker grill, and cutting the hole half an inch or so smaller. Mounted to the top of the cabin. You may buy speakers with enclosures suitable for mounting in the ceiling of your car.

You will want to be sure they allow headroom for all passengers, and do not interfere with the view in the rear-view mirror.

Car Audio System Wiring Basics

Also consider how you will route the speaker wires, as fabric headliners are difficult to attach the wires to, and headliners cannot be reattached like the door panels can be. This is the easiest way, but will not offer the optimum acoustics, since the seats will absorb much of the sound they produce. The speakers will be subject to considerable vibration if mounted on the floor of the vehicle, as well. Cut holes for rear dashboard mounted speakers, or use hardware supplied for ceiling or floor mounted speakers, and secure the assembly.

Route speaker wires at the edge of upholstery or flooring to the firewall behind the dashboard, then up to the stereo. Keep them tidy, either clamping them or tucking them under the trim or edge of the flooring to keep them in place. You may choose to remove the trim and install the wire completely concealed underneath the flooring of your car.

Consult the wiring diagram, if available, for your stereo, to pair the speaker wires to the correct terminals. If you have no wiring diagram, look at the terminals for markings, such as "L F" Left, Front "RR" Right, rear , and connect appropriately.


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    • Most stereo wiring bundles that have speaker "pigtails" sticking out the back use standard colors for power and ground, so never attach a speaker wire to red, black, or white. An appropriately-sized sheet metal screw and star washer will maximize the quality of the ground connection.


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      • With the amplifier location decided, you must now plan the running of wires from it to the battery, head unit, and speakers. If the new amp is installed in the trunk, you will need to plan a way to route the wiring from rear to front while keeping it hidden and protected. Some partial disassembly will be required to place the wires under carpeting. Consider routing the wiring where access is easily gained, such as under door sill plates, kick panels, pillar post trim panels, and removable rear seat cushions. Usually, these components can be unscrewed or pried loose from the edges rather easily.

      How to Wire Door Speakers to an Amp

      Your amp will draw power directly from the vehicle's positive battery terminal, so there will also be the need to run a power cable through the vehicle's firewall. Most vehicles will already have such a hole drilled as a pass-through for other cables, so locate this hole and run your wiring through it.

      Your amp should come with a power cable that's approximately 15 to 19 feet long. From the battery in the engine compartment, you will be running this wire through the firewall and underneath panels described in the previous paragraph until it reaches the amp. Your installation package will come with a fuse holder. It may already be integrated into your power cable, but if it isn't then you'll need to install it yourself.

      The industry standard is that the fuse should be no further than 18" from the battery; less than 12" away is preferable. Cut a " long section of power wire, attach it to one end of the fuse holder, and attach the other end of the cable to the other fuse holder end.

      Use appropriate wire stripping and crimping tools to connect terminals, or solder them and cover with heat shrink tubing or electrical tape.

      Step #1 Is Very Important!

      The connection at the battery positive cable is typically made with a ring terminal. Do NOT attach it to the battery post itself. The next step is pulling the radio out see our related article on Car Audio Installation and locating the "amplifier turn-on wire" leading from it — typically, it's blue in color.

      Your amplifier will have a lead designed to mate with this wire, and they can be crimped or soldered together based on your own preference. Once they're connected, the turn-on wire will automatically cue the amp to power up once the radio is turned on. Reference the two illustrations at the beginning of this article to see the blue turn-on wire.

      Car Audio System Wiring Basics

      Now it's time to install wires that transmit the signal to your amp. Some stereo receivers may be equipped with RCA type jacks and some may not, but the most important thing to remember is that signal wires and power cords for amps should always be run on opposite sides of the vehicle to prevent electrical noise and static. However, if your radio does not have RCA outputs, it's possible to cut factory speaker wiring and use it as an input source to your amplifier.

      You'll need a line output converter that converts high level speaker line outputs from an audio source into low-level RCA jacks on your amp.