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Now that the "T" tool has been removed, you can start pulling the flex pipe up. Have the second person walking the flex pipe out in a straight path. You will need ' area if you have a ' deep well. If you have a 3rd person, they can assist the first person with pulling out the well pump as it can get tiring for some people.

NOTE, the flex pipe will get slippery when you reach water level. The use of rubber grip gloves can be very helpful here, but is not necessary. Once the well pump is out, you can start removing the old pump. You will need to match its specifications for the new pump.

There are 2 different models, one with a control box, one without. When purchasing a new submersible pump, please remember how difficult and troublesome the job is and purchase the most reliable, well reviewed pump you can. Losing water because of a cheaper pump could cost you more in the long run. When connecting a new pump, make sure that you have someone electrically knowledgeable or an electrical contractor make the connections. For example, a volt pump with two black wires two "hots" and 1 green wire "ground". When ready to make the electrical connections, make sure to put the heat shrink plastic onto each wire before making the crimp connections.

Getting better crimp connectors than those supplied with your pump would be a good idea.

Start at the Breaker Panel

Remember, you don't want to have to remove the pump once it is down in the pipe just because of a bad connection. Once crimped and securely in place, you need to place the heat shrink tubing over the crimp connectors. When in place, you need to add a good amount of heat to the tubing to make it shrink, a match or lighter will not be enough heat. I used a small propane torch. Once heat shrunk, tape the wires to the pipe to keep them from moving freely in the pipe.

To do this, you will need the amount of water pipe ' in this example plus an extra 10' to allow for loops and connection to a lift next time. You will also need 6 stainless steel cable clamps, use 3 at each end. Now you are ready to install your new pump. You do not need to tape the cable to the water pipe, but you can. Place the pump near the hole and move the water flex pipe so it is in a straight line to the well head.

Just like removal, use 2 people at the well head, and another person to walk the flex pipe towards the well head. Insert the pump into the hole, and slowly start the decent. When the pump hits the water level, it may reduce in weight.

Submersible Well Pump Wiring Diagrams | LoveToKnow

This is perfectly normal since items in water weigh less then in air. Once you get to the pitless adapter, you will need to install your "T" tool once again. Have one person hold the pitless adapter and have someone else screw it in place. Then you can finish inserting the pitless adapter back into place. When the pitless adapter is secured, you will have not weight on the "T" tool, and it can be removed.

Please do not push hard to make sure it is seated properly since this can damage the well casing. Now you can reconnect the electrical connections at the top of the well, and again, if you don't feel comfortable doing this, consult an expert. Before installing the cap, it is best to check to see if you have water.

2 Wire and 3 Wire Submersible Well Pump Motor Wiring Differences Explained

Connect a hose to the hose connection at the bladder tank, turn on, and shut off the water going to the house. Turn the breaker on to the pump. Your water should gurgle, this sound is what happens when air is being pushed around. If you do not have water after 5 minutes; shut off the breaker to the pump.

Attach stainless steel safety cable to pump and roll out with rising main and drop cable. Attach safety cable end to bore cap allowing for the rising main to stretch. Attach the drop cable to the rising main with turns of grey duct tape every 4—6 meter You can also use zip ties. Allow some slack for the rising main to stretch.

I always tape the full length of the cable splice to the rising main to protect it.


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Allow a couple of metres extra drop cable to be doubled up and taped to the rising main below the bore cap. This might be required if the cable splice or motor need replacement at a later date. Check that the fittings are tight, check the cables are secure and slack to allow for stretch. If the weight of the assembly is light enough to handle, gently lower the pump end into the well with an assistant to hold the bore cap end.

Feed the assembly down the hole, pay particular attention to preventing damage to the electric drop cable.

Submersible Well Pump Wiring Diagrams

The assembly should be suspended by the bore cap on top of the casing. If the weight of the assembly cannot be safely handled a roller made from a car wheel may be used. Attach bore cap to vehicle with a sling and "D" shackle.

Position roller over well. Position vehicle to allow the pump to be lowered into well. Drive vehicle toward well. Lower the last meter by hand if possible or allow the well cap to bump over roller and into position on the casing. Connect pump starter, pump controller and pump protection device to power supply and test pump. Allow a few moments for the water to reach the surface.

On completion of the initial test proceed to connect the required pipe work to the bore cap. Over time the repeated twisting force of the motor starting up can cause the threaded pipe fittings on the top of the pump to twist tighter and tighter, wrapping the wires around the poly pipe until they break. The torque arrestor braces the installation against the twisting force of the motor as it starts, preventing rotation, movement and swinging of the pump as it hangs off the pipe. And soldering these connections makes good sense. Properly crimped connectors work fine at first, but they are susceptible to corrosion over the years.

Advanced troubleshooting

Even with soldered connections, cover them with waterproof, heat-shrink tubing, just to be sure. Never use electrical tape because it will simply fall off in time. I find that you can push pump wires through 10 foot lengths of pipe without it buckling. And second, a check valve ensures immediate water flow into the tank when the pump starts up.

The best kind have a flap of brass inside.

They make a little clicking noise when they operate, but they allow much greater water flow than the silent, spring-activated valves. Install a check valve immediately after the water pipe enters your house, but before it reaches the pressure tank. Getting pipe and pump and wires into the well in one piece is heavy work, and there are a couple of things you can do to make success more certain.

The first has to do with the top of the well casing. Just to be sure I use a plywood donut with a rounded inner edge that sits on top of the well. This eases pressure on the pipe, making it easier to avoid kinking it. You can see the plywood dough I made below. Put two people in charge of directing pipe at the well head, and a third guiding the top end of the pipe and tee handle along the ground. After meshing the two halves of the pitless adaptor, tie the end of the safety rope on the top of the inner well cap, complete your connections to the wires feeding power to the pump, then fasten the outer well cover over everything.